As such, we’ll reserve judgment on the Chronomat 42’s Rouleaux bracelet until we get to wear these during a hands-on or a review. Breitling doesn’t say much about it other than that it comes in all-stainless steel and two-tone stainless steel mixed with 18k red gold, both secured by a butterfly clasp. The Rouleaux bracelet makes a spectacular return, as well.
WHY IS GUBELIN WATCH STAMPED 18K ON STAINLESS BACK PRO
The cases are available in all-stainless steel stainless steel with 18k red gold bezel “rider tabs,” crown and pushers stainless steel with a heavier reliance on 18k red gold in the bezel and bracelet and finally, there is a solid 18k red gold cased version - albeit without an all-gold bracelet, sold on the Black Diver Pro II rubber strap with an 18k red gold folding clasp. Perhaps not the most essential “update” - but I wouldn’t dare call myself a Chronomat fan if I didn’t want these rider tabs to work as they should.
The rider tabs are still there, and God knows I’ve tried, but I simply couldn’t tell from Breitling’s images if these tabs are indeed rider tabs that slide above a fixed bezel when turned or turn together with a one-piece bezel like on a more ordinary watch. The big aesthetic changes to the case, beyond the downgraded diameter that went from 44 to 42, are the straighter lugs that hearken back to the original, and the flatter bezel. Last I heard (in November, last year), Breitling still uses the same Swiss supplier and the same methods for its steel cases, so I expect the same heavy-duty yet refined vibe from these new Chronomats, and nothing less. So yeah, the Chronomat has always had a few tricks up its sleeve to attain that especially rugged and dependable feel. A little insider info, not in Breitling’s current press release, but something that has contributed massively to that uniquely “dense” feel of a Chronomat: Chronomat cases were stamped over the course of two weeks and over 15 times, subjected to a total pressure of 875 tons, heated to 1,100☌ (2,012☏) before each stamping. If you have ever held a modern Chronomat, you’ll know that special, heavy, dense feeling - something that stems from the way Breitling’s cases are stamped over and over again. The new Breitling Chronomat B01 comes in a 42-millimeter-wide case that is 15.10 millimeters thick and is notably rated water resistant to an impressive 20 bars, equivalent to 200 meters. The Chronomat is finally no exception, with the bulky, shiny, brick-like allure of the Chronomat 44 now re-tuned for a 1980s vibe.
All this is performed in tune with Breitling’s recent change of direction (a change that occurred almost exactly three years ago to date), which entails a more vintage-inspired remix of contemporary references. Now, I am pleased to say, the Breitling Chronomat is back to form with a completely re-designed, exciting look with a new case style and case size, new bracelet, and new dial options. The most recent major iteration of the Chronomat, next to the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 2020.
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